Thursday 30 June 2011

San Francisco Part Deux - Napa to Vancouver

Another epic post...

It was another sunny day in San Francisco. 

After standing in the car rental office for 20 min and some bad coffee we hit the road. 

Our first stop was here...


"The Edge of Glory"

There is something romantic about this bridge. 
Something haunting also. 
The way it hangs in the mist. 
The way is sways and rolls with the tides and quakes. 

We had to get out and get some photos. 


This was on the city side. 
You could rent a bike to ride over. 
There was a guard at the entrance. 

What was he saying to people as they passed?

We will never know because we didn't venture out. 
We had no change to pump into the meter and were afraid with our luck that we could get a $25 ticket.


From this view point we could see the city...behind the haze. 

We jumped back in the Chev and held hands as we drove over the bridge. 

Kidding.


It was pretty cool. 

For a bridge. 
Now when I see it on TV I can say...I've driven over that bridge. 
Well...Mr.Man has. 

Once on the other side we took a hard right into another view point. 

Note to future SF visitors...drum roll please...

There is FREE PARKING on the other side! 

Cha Ching! 


Plus you get some pretty cool perspectives of the bridge.

And this...



But Napa was waiting. 
For us. 

Okay...Napa waits for no one. 
So we hit the road, hit a Starbucks and fired up the GPS.


Bless you GPS. 

Bless you. 

You saved our marriage. 

Ha ha. 

No...well...almost. 


The temperature jumped about 10 degrees as we crossed the bridge and drove down down down into the valley. We passed about 4 mega shopping centres plexus and didn't stop. 

I know. 

Then we drove some more. 


The temperature jumped again and we were at about 28 degrees. 


I took some photos and Mr.Man drove us past the acres and acres of gold. 


The landscape was really beautiful. 
Bare dessert like mountains (ok...hills) with vines nestled below. 


Oh and of course some of these. 
This one was big. 
Real big. 

Short man syndrome I gather. 


We rounded the bend listening to Wiz Khalifa sing "Black and Yellow" (we found the CD in the car from the previous renter - it was called "Rolling Papers") and drove our black Dick Tracey HHR into this palace...


Domaine Carneros


Bubbly. 
Good bubbly. 


Some food too...one of the few we visited that did. 


Who needs food when you can have this. 

This is the "sampler".

One sample. 

This was only our first stop.

We need a driver. 


Someone is happy.

Who wouldn't be. It was fantastic. 

Bubbly fantastic. 



Thanks super nice guy. 


Mr.Man maps out the 7 stops recommended to us by a friend. 

He is crazy. 
He is ambitious. 

He is freakishly excited. 
I am tired already...the bubbly. 


Next stop...Darioush Winery.

aka...The Persian Palace. 

Whatever they call it...their wines rock. 


Cab Franc to die for. Mr.Man was all smiles. He would have jumped up and down. 

Okay he did. 

Well...he didn't. 

I wished he had. I could have taken a picture. 


We had hopes for this one...heard some good things...


Lovely court yard and sipping tables. 
People walk anywhere with their wine...we will talk about that later. 

We were not impressed. 
Nothing worth putting in the suitcase (remember we only have a four bottle limit).

So we cracked open the map and hit the trail.



This one was good. I mean how could you go wrong with this courtyard. 
This picture does no justice. 
Plus they had the Maple Leaf flying high. 

Cliff Lede. 

Another bottle for the suitcase. 

*Note to future Napa wine tasters*

1. Bring a driver. 
2. Bring lots of money
 3. Give yourself at least 2 days (duh). 

Each "tasting" was anywhere from $15-30 dollars. You could sample about 4-5 wines at 2oz pours...some were more like 4...and basically get totally loaded.

Since we were driving we... sipped and spit. 

I know. 

It was sad, expensive reality. 

I didn't want to get my drink on all alone...plus I had to monitor Mr.Man's spending. 
He has been known to get carried away. 
Especaially at the wine festival here in Vancouver every year. 

Back to the adventure...

After a quick lunch at this little roadside country store...we drove up to this. 


Yes. 

It is UNBELIEVABLE. 
I want to get married again and do it here. 


Rubicon Estate 

Francis F. Coppola bought it in the 70's and has been entertaining people from all over the world with his wines for the past 25 years. 

It is something else. 


A little...forced. But people love the opulence. The layers...

We did. 


Here is Mr.Man sampling the goods. 

We bought a bottle of this...


It was tasty. 


Then we toured the museum. 
A mix of the estates history and Coppola's career. 
Also some great cinematic history.

I wondered who got to eat dinner here?


Just one room of many that housed aging vintages. All the bottles were coated in dust or wrapped in paper. 


Ah...the good life. 

We said goodbye and headed toward Yountville. 


We found this totally awesome tasting room that sold Revolver wines. 

It was sick. 
In a good way people. 

We loved it and bought one more bottle so for those of you keeping track...we are now over our limit. We like to live dangerously people.
(*update...customs told us to enjoy...honesty pays!*)

 The wine had made us both a little sleepy. We had some time to kill and no money left so we found a park and laid down in the sunshine for a nap. 

Mr.Man set his alarm on his phone. 
I know. 

But we had dinner reservations at Ad Hoc


Very relaxed Thomas Keller Restaurant. 

You may have heard of his other restaurant...French Laundry

No?

It is regarded as one of the best (if not the best) restaurant in the country. 
I will get deeper into that later. 
I am already getting giddy thinking about writing about it...

I am weird.  

Ad Hoc is a more casual and family style approach rather than the gastronomical mind blowing experience you can find at the French Laundry. 

Plus it is a fraction of the price. 


Plus...you don't need a jacket. 


Cool menu. Changes EVERY DAY.

Truly. 

EVERY day. 

Everything is local. Like down the street in the French Laundry's garden local. 
Bread made in the bakery three blocks down local. 


Salad. 
I am sure there was a snazzy beautiful way to discribe it...I called it...

"Peter Rabbit's Crack."

Fresh. Simple. Light. 

They had me at english snap peas. 

I am now inspired to make salads like these at home. 

Keep it simple. 


Bone in braised short ribs. Served in the pan it was cooked in. 

You could make this. Only really you couldn't. It just appears that way. 

It was a rich flavour filled meal you would want to share with friends over wine and great conversation.
Luckily I had Mr.Man 


And some wonderful surprises from a friend working down the road who knew we were coming to dinner that night.


He works here. 

We didn't even try to get in. 

They are booked for 6 months. 
They turn away well known celebrities all the time because they are booked. 
It is prix fixe menu.

9 mind blowing passionate courses. 

They also hold the Michelin 5 star...one of 54 restaurants worldwide to do so. 
Sure a fancy rating system...what does all this mean? 

Basically...the French Laundry is one of the most consistent in the world in regards to preparing the highest quality foods for it's guests. The execution of their locally sourced ingredients and their innovation and culinary imagination also make them damn sexy.  

Beyond.

A dream really. 

Check out there website HERE to read all about it. 

We crept in around the side to gently ask for our friend. 

He embraced us and asked us to please come in for a tour. 

Umm....OhMyGod. 

Seriously?

Yes please.


Here we are...Mr.Man is crapping himself I am trying to act like this is a normal thing...to be posing in the middle of diner service at the French Laundry.

Surrounded by masters. 

It was incredible. 

We were speechless...I can't even remember what our friend was saying because all I was hearing was...
"Wholly shit I am standing in the kitchen at the French Laundry."

He introduced us to the Chef de Cuisine and Sous Chef, The Saucier. They were all very friendly, but like I said...all I heard was my own voice saying over and over...
"I am standing in the kitchen at the French Laundry."

It was amazing.
The hustle and the bustle.
The co-ordination, expertise, patience, care and diligence put into each dish they created was unbelievable. 

Our friend was very calm pointing out how they could watch their restaurant Per Se in NYC live via satellite and pointing out how the kitchen runs, how the dishes are assembled, how they change it up every night over beers after service. 

"Yes Chef."

I could have watched all night. A frenzy of creativity, passion, love and limitlessness. 

Then our friend asked us to please stay...

"You don't have to rush off do you...please join us in the garden for Champagne I will be right back"



Thats me. I am soaking it all in. 


Mr.Man almost wept too. 
It was beautiful in there. 
The garden and the courtyard was breathtaking. 
I wanted to snap away...but felt shameful so I didn't. 
The guests there didn't need me doing that. 
Plus Mr.Man gave me the no pictures look.


Then our friend came out with a small silver tray. 

OMG. 

The mignardises that were being served to guests that night. 

Hand made chocolates. 

Unlike anything I have tasted before. 

Heaven on Earth. 

"Please...go check out the garden...take your Champagne."


Don't mind if we do. 

It is a very Napa thing to do...walk and drink. 
Anywhere.

 Even in the French Laundry garden. 


A fantasy land of vegetables, herbs, squashes, berries, and chickens. 

For the eggs.


All their ingredients come from here. Tucker the gardner makes it look beautiful too. 


It was such a surreal moment for us...the sun was setting, the champagne was flowing and our hearts were filled.  It was the most perfect ending to the last night of our amazing trip.

We felt like we got a little taste of the magic that is the French Laundry. 

We will see you again. 

Thank-you, thank-you thank-you friend. 

Your generosity overfloweth and the memories you have given will bring us back to you one day. 



Note to future Napa visitors... 

1. Book ahead. 
2. Clear the credit card. 
3. Get a sitter for the kids.


Back into the HHR to drive back to SF. 

Don't worry...Mr.Man could see...I was the one drinking remember. 

We went back over the Bay Bridge. 

Wow. That bridge is huge. HUGE!

Long. 

Mr.Man was holding the wheel with his hands at 10 and 2. 


The Bay Bridge


It had a tunnel in it. 

Word. 


It basically went on forever. And ever.


Remember this shot? And this one only shows half of it. There are two levels. 

Top and bottom. 

Our last day in SF was spent standing in line at Dotties Cafe


Almost one hour. The line up was gone by 3:00. 

Cause they close. 

Totally worth a visit. 

Small, organic, local, friendly, yummy, vintage and cozy.


Oh and the best Rocky Road Bars ever.

EVER. 

Still dreaming about it. 

I was still a bit cold from out wait outside so we thought we'd take a walk up to Nob Hill. 


Looks unassuming. 


Maybe you see why I warmed up by the time we got to the top. Those cars are about 10 degrees from tipping over. 


Ding Ding!! 

Do I regret not riding...maybe.

 I know I will be back. 

Everyone goes back.



Back to Japantown for some shopping and lunch.


This was hanging above us at our table in Bun Mee. 

Vietnamese rice bowl place on Filmore. Awesome. Yum. Awesome. Yum. 
Repeat. 


Back to the hotel to get the bags and catch the shuttle to SFO.



One more shot for the road. 

Then we wait...one extra hour. 
We smile. 
We eat. 
We wait. 

We board. 

We see the motherland. 

All pretty. 


I always say it is good to be home. 

I loved our time together...our adventures, our silences, our closeness, our exploring and discovering...the sights, the tastes, the inspiration, the people and the energy...

But it is so good to be home. 


Especially with these two...up to their shenanigans already. 

E.